Cooker switch wiringmsci world ticker

Although the main body of the oven or hob may run off of gas, there are other components that will still require electricity to operate.Many modern ovens and cookers are fan assisted, meaning that they have a fan built into the rear of the oven area that can be turned on that then blows the generated hot air around the oven so that it’s evenly distributed and what ever is in the oven is in turn cooked evenly.These fans are more often than not electrically powered.Additionally, most modern ovens have some sort of timing function to enable the oven to be turned off after a set cooking time. Use appropriate green/yellow sleeving if required. This will also probably need an electric supply to operate.In the case of a gas-powered hob, you may think; how can this possibly need a supply of electricity to work?In answer, the hob itself will be fully reliant on gas, but the igniter that sparks to light the gas will in most cases need an electricity supply in order to generate a spark.If you have read through the above in detail you should now be well aware of the rules of fitting an electric cooker and whether you are allowed to do this.For the purposes of this project we are going to be doing a like-for-like swap e.g. In answer, not quite, there are in fact three main different types of electric cooker:The main differences between each of the cooker types listed above is how and where they are installed.As the name may suggest, this type of cooker is essentially a self contained unit and normally features an oven at the base, with three or four hobs above the oven.Freestanding cookers are normally around 600mm in width and are installed in a standard unit-width gap between other kitchen units or at the end of a run of units.One thing to note is that occasionally, freestanding cookers are secured to the walls surface behind them via a chain. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness. This is to prevent them from toppling over if they are pulled forwards.This securing chain is a required safety device for gas freestanding cookers to prevent the cooker itself from falling forwards and ripping the gas pipe off of the wall, but can occasionally also be fitted to electric freestanding cookers.The built-in (or eye-level) electric cooker is normally fitted inside a standard kitchen unit carcass at around 720mm from floor level, hence the alternate name of an eye-level cooker.The height requirements are normally to allow for a cupboard or set of pan drawers to be installed beneath it.As I’m sure you have guessed, the built-in electric cooker does not feature any integrated hobs as they would be too high to use. If not you will need to pull it back out and inspect it to find out why.Position the new cooker in place to make sure that it fitsIn this case, once fitted we found that the new cooker was 5mm taller than the old one, meaning it did not slide under the worktop.To cure this, we pulled it back out and then dropped the unit down just over 5mm by replacing some of the packers that were in place under the unit feet.make any fine adjustments to the kitchen unit so that the new cooker fits as it shouldNow that we know that the new cooker will fit into the unit recess as it should do, before we can actually fit it in place, the final job is to connect the electrical supply cable to the terminal on the rear of the new cooker.In the case of our supply cable, it was fairly old so was still using the old style wire colours as opposed to the new.