bench vice drawing with dimensionsmsci world ticker

Reply I was half expecting the lower leg of your vise to have a second acme threaded rod driven by a sprocket and bicycle chain connecting it to the upper rod that would more closely match the mechanical movements of the vise jaws. To do this, I removed the shelf and since I'd already glued the inner stretcher in place, I drilled a couple of holes through it and then attached the guide with screws to the outer stretcher.Another option that I may also try is to add a second linear bearing to the rear of the leg, but so far the simple wooden block has worked great.Although the guide addition made the motion of the vise very smooth, there was still a little racking when clamping work-pieces down hard in the vise. Reply At the center of that hole, I drilled another one that was just slightly larger than the bearing's cylinder so that there would be a small amount of wiggle room to make mounting it perpendicular to the leg face a bit easier.I then drilled another hole about 9" down from the top of the leg's tenon (the bench top) for the vise screw. Since I'm (mostly) right-handed, I'll be mounting the vise to the front-left leg to make edge planing easier, but if you're left-handed you may want to consider mounting it to the front-right leg.I got a bit of a head-start on the vise installation while I was still working on the bench by drilling a few holes for the vise screw and linear bearing that I will be using in the leg. It will greatly help. High alloyed quality resistance steel, case hardened HRC 60 ±2, is used in manufacturing all the Gerardi vises and accessories in order to give maximum rigidity, high performances and no wear. After marking the hole locations, I then pre-drilled and screwed it in place.While the vise hardware is great, it was a bit too Next, it was time to start on the chop. Nice build! I am sure that this comes from school. Thanks to the manufacturing with only the most suitable materials and to the structure of the vise components. 1 year ago Ideally you should watch the videos before or during construction. Thanks! To center the collar opening with the hole in the leg, I mostly just eye-balled it from above while making a few marks at the extents.

on Excellent vice.

I then used some double-sided tape to secure it to a piece of MDF to act as a tapering jig at the table saw.After ripping it into two pieces I cut one half down to make a smaller 12" wedge for workpieces up to 3" wide. If you're working with an existing bench, it should still be possible to drill all the holes with a cordless drill using a square to keep the drill as perpendicular to the front face of the leg as possible. 1 year ago

nice project, I hasn't realised the linear bearings and rods were so affordable. I say that’s absolutely not a concern. I have always pur vices on the left. With the drawer liner on the chop it is for most operations. This actually ended up eliminating the need for the wedge during most clamping operations.With both of these changes, it's now possible to apply a To ensure the screw was centered in the hole in the chop I shimmed it along the floor, and then pre-drilled and attached the screw to the chop with a pair of 2" #14 screws.Then, with the chop tightened against the bench leg and centered along the bottom, I inserted the Forstner bit that matched the bearing size and marked on the back of the chop the location for the rod. :) Another alternative might be to change the triangular block to a wooden cam that is operated via a shaft and knob from near the top of the vise. Do you think that's possible? I then used the wedge to mark off the corresponding piece that needed removing on the chop and cut it out using a hand saw.To finish up the chop I added a little wood glue to the hole for the rod -- mostly just to harden the wood around it as the fit was already tight enough to hold it in place.I also cut a piece of thick drawer liner to add even more grip to the top of the chop and used some double-sided tape to secure it in place.
1 year ago

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